The Journal

Travel ·

Wild and Free: Assateague Island

There is always something waiting just beyond what you noticed last time.

Painting of two wild ponies grazing in the Assateague marsh at sunset, pines along the horizon and clouds reflected in the water.
Wild ponies, Assateague Island, Virginia

The wild horses are what bring most people to Assateague Island.

They’re easy to understand. They wander the beaches, graze through the marshes, and appear around corners with the quiet confidence of animals that have lived there far longer than the roads or the visitors. They don’t perform. They simply belong to the island.

It’s tempting to think they’re the whole story.

They’re not.

One afternoon we climbed aboard a small tour boat and eased into the marshes that surround the island. The water was calm enough to reflect the clouds, egrets stepped carefully through the shallows, and the captain pointed out osprey nests balanced on weathered channel markers. Every few minutes someone spotted another horse grazing in the distance.

Then Thomas interrupted.

“What are those?”

He was pointing toward the marsh grass.

At first, none of us saw what he meant. Then the captain smiled.

Tiny snails.

Hundreds of them.

Every blade of marsh grass seemed to end with a small white shell balanced delicately at the top.

The captain explained that as the tide rises, the marsh periwinkle snails climb the grass to stay above the water. When the tide falls, they make their way back down to feed, repeating the same quiet journey with every change in the tide.

I’d never noticed them before.

In fact, I don’t think I would have noticed them at all if Thomas hadn’t asked.

It’s funny how often children discover the smallest things first.

Adults tend to arrive looking for the landmark. Children arrive wondering about the pebble, the feather, the shell, or the tiny white dots clinging to blades of grass.

Neither way is wrong.

They’re simply different ways of moving through the same place.

Long after I forget how many horses we saw that afternoon, I suspect I’ll remember those snails.

Not because they’re rare.

Because once someone points them out, the marsh is never quite the same again.

That’s one of the gifts of places like Assateague.

They aren’t exhausted in a single visit.

There is always something waiting just beyond what you noticed last time.

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